Every Cartier release of Watches & Wonders 2024 | LISTS (2024)

Borna Bošnjak

It’s finally that time of year when brands unveil most of their new releases for the year, and Cartier is one of those rare brands that get everyone at the T+T offices truly excited. Whether it’s a dainty gem-set creation, a sporty take on an icon, or a suave IYKYK stunner, there’s something for everyone – and I think I may already have my favourite watch of the fair sorted. Having said that, there are quite a few to pick from, as it tends to go with Cartier, so let’s get into all the releases.

Privé Tortue Monopoussoir

• Reviving the famous Tortue Monopoussoir of the late ’90s that featured the famous Journe-Flageollet-Halter movement.
• Available in either platinum or yellow gold, the new Privé Tortue Monopoussoir aims to enhance dial legibility and features a new monopusher chronograph movement measuring only 4.3mm in height.
• Limited to 200 pieces per metal, it wouldn’t surprise anyone to see it sell out very quickly, though we’ll need to wait and see whether it can capture the IYKYK fanbase like its predecessor.

Privé Tortue

• Though no Cartier Privé watch is ordinary, the non-chronograph Privé Tortue brings a slimmer profile to the understated, 1912-inspired design.
• The Breguet (or apple, according to Cartier) handset fits right into the early periods of the wristwatch that inspire this Tortue, as do the Roman numeral dials and slender, precious-metal cases.
• The three new models are all powered by the 430 MC, a manually winding calibre based on the Piaget 430P that’s only 2.1mm in height in its round variant.

Santos de Cartier Dual Time

• The Santos de Cartier heads in a decidedly sporty direction, aiming to become the go-to jet-setter’s watch with its new Dual Time complication.
• Neatly integrated at 6 o’clock, the second time zone and day/night indicator combine with a subtle anthracite dial to look like any regular Santos. The matched day wheel is a nice touch.
• Cartier hasn’t provided any details of the new movement yet, though it’s likely to be a modular addition to the base 1847 MC movement.

Santos de Cartier

• Alongside the Dual Time, the three-handed Santos de Cartier range expands with new colourways, most notably a delicious pair of chocolate browns.
• Two Large models are presented, in two-tone with a grey dial, and the aforementioned brown, while the third is a Medium.
• Powered by the 1847 MC, I have no doubt that these will be as popular as the green Santos was upon its release.

Santos-Dumont Rewind

• For a brand that takes itself as seriously as Cartier, the Santos-Dumont Rewind is an unexpected breath of fresh air, sporting a backwards-running, manually wound movement.
• Taking the form of the 31.5mm Santos-Dumont, the dial’s backwards Roman numerals will surely take a while for people to get used to, though I’ve no doubt the 200-piece run will quickly sell out and become highly sought-after on the secondary market.
• Details about the 230 MC are again sparse, but I’m fully expecting it to just be a reversed 430 MC that’s in the rest of the manually wound Santos-Dumont range.

Santos-Dumont

• Speaking of the Santos-Dumont, Cartier is also releasing a fresh new trio of lacquered models, with two non-limited editions entering the fray alongside a green, platinum-cased LE.
• All three opt for Arabic numerals instead of the Romans found on their predecessors, otherwise identical in case size.
• Manually wound, with a 38-hour power reserve, the ultra-thin 430 MC is based on the Piaget 430P.

Reflection de Cartier

• The Reflection de Cartier marks our entry into the brand’s jewellery like creations for the year, described by Cartier’s Marie-Laure Cérède as a “veritable sculpture to wear on the wrist”.
• The four models are naturally available in highly bejewelled variants, but the coolest thing about them is the highly polished surface facing the dial that offers a distortion-free reflection.
• Combining multiple setting techniques of the diamonds, opal, amethysts, garnets and other gemstones, the Reflection collection is making the most of the resurgence of the small, blingy piece.

Animal Jewellery Watch

• With a softly squared dial aperture reminiscent to that of the Pebble, the Animal Jewellery Watch continue the tradition started by the first watch inspired by the panther from 1914.
• For 2024, Cartier combines inspiration from the zebra and the crocodile to create the swirling pattern surrounding the fully gem-set cases.
• The quartz-powered collection is available in rose, yellow or white gold, with ruby, garnet, spinel and diamond-setting.

Panther Jewellery Watch

• Even more on the nose in regards to its inspiration is the Panther Jewellery Watch, bringing Cartier’s signature beast to more haute joaillerie pieces.
• If the “subtle” sapphire and emerald setting isn’t quite enough bling, you can also opt for some rhodolite and spessartite garnets on top of the onyx and diamonds, along with a complex enamel dial.
• It may be hard to discern due to the gem-setting, but both of these watches come with white gold cases.

Crocodile Jewellery Watch

• The Crocodile Jewellery Watch plays even more into the inspiration for the Animal Jewellery, with more distinct crocodilian features, and more gems, naturally.
• Wrapping around the pebble-shaped case, Cartier’s crocs are rendered in tourmalines, sapphires, emeralds, mother-of-pearl, and diamonds.
• Alongside the gems, the cases are finished with gradient enamel continuing outwards from 2 o’clock on the dial.

Tiger Jewellery Watch

• Just like the Crocodile, the Tiger Jewellery Watch incorporates the feline’s head as if presenting the watch in its jaws.
• The stripes contrast against a white gold and yellow and orange sapphire base with black spinels.
• “These new designs enrich the Cartier bestiary in watchmaking, whether figurative or abstract, real or imaginary, they translate a natural beauty”, explaints Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s Director of Heritage, Image, and Style.